Continues on the third day I search for a lowest common denominator between genres and opposite styles that acts as the common thread to the New York Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 and takes shape in collections ranging from rebellion and bon ton.
Right from day one, the New York Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 moves along two paths proceeding in the same direction, approaching, crossing and moving away: tradition and innovation. A theme double and speculate, explored on the third day with a series of collections contrasting with an elegant style, measured and bon ton a punk, unconventionaland rebellious.
Punk is dead. Long live the punk. Max Azria reinterprets the seductive style of Hervé Léger by drawing on the roots of the cultural movement and stylistic break par excellence in the footsteps of the great and inimitable Vivienne Westwood, but with a unique touch and very personal. The result is a collection autumn-winter 2016-2017 in which the protagonists are the dresses, made of jersey, jacquard and tartan, with technical materials and leather inserts, studs, chains, fringes and safety pins, eyelets and bias cuts. One irreverent measurably style, which finds prioprio completely coats in precious materials and sophisticated mood, as the maxi cardigans bomber (similar to that seen in the collection Fenty x Puma designed by Rihanna).
The other side of stylistic rebellion is the proposal of Alexander Wang. The American creative talented sends on the catwalk a series of garments that mix erothic and punk elements, bon ton and classic, in the name of the contamination of genres and mood that is the trademark of the designer. Among lingerie at sight, clothes that seem petticoats, oversized sweaters, suits in tweed and extravagant accessories but not too much, the result is a collection that seems to be missing a bit ‘of originality, indulging in provocation of the game at all costs. In short: good, but enough.
Unconventional and fun are the creations of Felipe Oliveira Baptista for Lacoste NYFW 2016-2017 (see NYFW definition). Among seventies and sporting influences, the Portuguese designer gives form to a series of original, experimental look but wearable and contemporary, playful but rigorous.The members wear overalls with dry sweaters, dresses in jersey with zip and / or embroidery of skiers, the maxi mutton with geometric cuts combine to create a sense of “the future” that draws liberally from the past-particularly that related to the tradition the skiing – which is much more than a mere exercise in style and homage the heritage of the brand, but actual construction of a new trend.
France, mon amour. And ‘the land beyond the Alps the benchmark and inspiration for Michael Anderson of Banana Republic. The senior vice president of brand design has in fact brought on tour between Paris, Lyon and Provence its creative team to create a collection able to tell the unformal-chic style of the French. The result is a modern collection with vintage touches, elegantly casual and bon ton, characterized by vibrant colors and small details, so sought after because apparently easy.
Sensual and refined however, is the proposal to Mara Hoffman, inspired by an imaginary dinner with three icons like Cher, Grace Jones and Jerry Hall. Including animal prints, maxi dress, flared trousers, lace, tulle and velvet, the designer makes a journey between the twenties and seventies, east and west, gracefully and sfacciatezza, arriving in a where the ‘place elegance goes hand in hand with the provocation.
Inspired by the atmosphere and aesthetics of Only Lovers Left Alive , the 2013 film by Jim Jarmusch with Tom Hiddleston, Tilda Swinton and Mia Wasikowska, the collection of Joseph Altuzarra is probably the one that most of all in the third day of the lens can mix styles and genres until a harmonious whole, chic and sophisticated. Paisley, floral, patchwork, velvet, leather, wool, silk blend to compose a veritable symphony of elegance, that surprises and seduces without being pretentious.