In the stages of development of a jewel, the current time of the jewelry authorial gaucho corresponds to the solidification: The metal takes shape and body. The positive scenario is the result of the growing work that has been accomplished by professionals and artists, revealing strength, diversity and a receptive consumer. Committed to disseminating the production of authentic and handmade pieces, Alice Floriano, Marcos Rosemberg, Eduarda Cadore and Valeria Sá are some of the names you are worth knowing.
The optimistic murmur of the market also contributes. Retracted over 2016, the sector recovered at the end of the year, when it surpassed sales estimates at 50%, and the association of Jewelry Trade, watches and optics of Rio Grande do Sul (Ajorsul) bet on a large 2017. MORE: Gems with stones are in high–good news for the state that is among the largest producers in the country of gems such as amethyst, citrus and agate. But also the consumer is surprising. If first parts with design and traditional materials were the preferred, today the demand is more diversified.
–The Gaucho consumer is still conservative, but is an excellent buyer, who is more demanding, eager for novelty. That is why the designer is fundamental–celebrates Celso Stürmer, president of Ajorsul.
If there’s demand, the offer grows. Practical courses and jewelry theorists, from rapid modules to professional extension, are increasingly frequent. One of them is the Criativitá School of Jewelry, which opened the doors in 2015 in the Capital by the hands of designer Lisia Barbieri. In two years, more than 250 students passed there in search of refinement and updating.
–Manual labor is already valued, but we have high professionals deficit for some jewelry techniques. So it is so important to have locations that teach increasingly interested in learning–it highlights Lisia.
Many names of the South have consecrated themselves in the branch, such as Adriana Cauduro, Debora Ioschpe, Debora Dvoskin, Luciana Ceratti, Nicola Jorge, Bruna Heeman, Cesar Cony, Celso Dean and Rosa Leal. With a newly released collection, Rosa highlights that there is a right place in the marketplace for those who invest in top line care, online strategy and, of course, unique design:
–In time of crisis, the business that does not reinvent itself ends.
In fact, a change is underway in and out of the jewelry holder. The pieces have gone beyond the vault and special occasions and are present in the day to day. Meet some of the creators responsible for this transformation and that they are cutting so much the gems they have in their hands as the craft of making jewelry.
Abandon the concepts of what is meant by jewelry. Ready. This is the only way to dive into the work of the artist jeweler Alice Floriano, 33 years, in his pioneering gallery of contemporary jewelry in Porto Alegre. She seeks the pieces that pan the same unique and innovative look that prints in her works, result of seven years of study and improvement in specialized schools in Lisbon, London and Florence.
–There are a multitude of techniques, and the more you dominate, the more freedom you have. We do not have great contemporary jewellers in Brazil or a face defined by the lack of a strong technical school–highlights.
In Portugal, when working at the gallery of the renowned jeweler Tereza Sancho, Alice conceived the project that inaugurated in the Gaucho capital in 2015: the Jewelry gallery Alice Floriano, the first of the capital and one of the few of Brazil. In space, it exposes and sells from its own curated works of 40 consecrated artists and new promising talents of the world and also Brazil. His dream is to diffuse contemporary jewelry as artistic movement and cultural expression:
–I realized that there was more sense in showing the work of others and not just mine.
The assembled pieces are more than necklaces, rings and brooches. “are objects that relate to the body,” explains Alice, who has selected creations of unusual materials such as coal and mushroom. For her, the value of the jewel is in the artistic quality of its creation. So it uses the most varied raw materials and calls itself a “scavenger of things.”
-Meet on the ground, on the way, on the beach, on a trip. They are elements that seem to ask to become a part-account, ensuring that they have a loyal and growing clientele dominated by women over 60 years old.
Entrepreneurial amid the economic downturn, Alice does not despise commercial jewelry and admits that producing serial parts would be simpler amid the difficulty faced by traditional competition and a reticent market.
–it was a tougher choice, sometimes it’s disstimulating, but it’s what I believe. It still doesn’t make a profit, because all the gain return on investment to the gallery, but I get more and more interested and I can keep myself. And if you keep it a big deal nowadays.
♦ The pieces of Alice Floriano cost from R $150, for sale at the gallery Alice Floriano (Rua Felix da Cunha, 1,143, neighbourhood windmills).
Phone: (51) 3377-5879
For 20 years present in the Porto Alegre market of jewelry, Valeria Sá gave new direction for its brand in the last decade: turned reference when the subject is sustainable jewelry. Attentive to discussions on environmental awareness at a time when the fashion and sustainability relationship was still incipient, the designer began to develop products that did not assault nature, replacing the prevailing production in gold for parts made from recycled silver extracted from X-ray plates of hospitals.
–It’s a green and clean job that goes against rampant consumption. It’s a luxury to be sustainable, knowing where it came from, how it was manipulated and that it’s heating the local economy. It’s a lifestyle. Since then, I have consumed with more consciousness and even my wardrobe has changed–tells the designer who has courses held in Sao Paulo.
Their creations have pioneered a traditional market until they are considered one of the best local examples of upcycling – process of transforming disposable wastes, avoiding waste. It also needed to overcome the resistance of customers in relation to recycled silver and their extraction process. Countless times he had to make sure the jewels were not radioactive
–Silver has always been seen as a second-rate metal. Today, what’s the great jewelry store doesn’t have entire collections made with it? Questions.
In addition to necklaces, earrings, bracelets and silver rings, it also has a line made of green and blue bottled glass with the same stonework of precious stones and another with recycled bicycle tire. And Valeria still retains her gold reform work, increasingly sought after the crisis.
–Reharnessing is the only way to stay alive, and with the jewelry is no different. I have gained new clients that instead of acquiring a play, they now bring their unused to reform. I’ve never worked so hard.
♦ Parts from R $30, for sale on the site and the atelier of the brand (with time marked) and also in the collective 828, initiative that brings together creators with the same concept in the Capital.
Phone: (51) 3331-8937
Lisia Barbieri acted 10 years as a lawyer when she was presented to jewelry as art and craft by the jeweler Gaucho Cesar Cony. Marveled at the artisanal process of producing parts, had no doubt when he communicated the father that would change the area of acting “to be happier”. Encouraged by the master, he studied for a time in Florence, birthplace of jewelry, at Alcchimia scuola di Gioielleria, and participated in exhibitions by Europe.
Twenty years later, he dedicates himself to creating jewelry with a contemporary concept, but is in front of the Criativitá School of jewellery that performs his greatest project: teaching and sharing knowledge with whom he nourishes the same passion for the copyrighted jewelry, as he learned from his mentor.
–Many professionals who learned jewelry techniques in the family are seeking us, but I have also received children from jewellery owner wanting to learn because they did not have the teaching transmitted inside the house–says Lisia.
Inaugurated at the beginning of 2015 in Porto Alegre, the Criativitá has 10 courses, from the initials to the most specific. Lisia reveals that he has already received people with medical recommendation for the course of jewelry–slow and meticulous manual labor–but most of them are men and women willing to change profession, besides a portion that has activity as a hobby.
In addition to classes, the school, installed in a large house in the Boa Vista neighbourhood, still works as a store and space for exhibitions and workshops with instructors from other locations of the state and the country. Everything is the result of Lisia’s effort to diffuse the idea of the copyright jewelry.
–There are still people who believe that we do from mold, without understanding that someone drew and did by hand. The jewelry store fascinates because it allows any time to break and start again.
At the Alameda Sebastian de Brito, 90, in Porto Alegre.
Phone: (51) 3019-8055
Treasures From here
Eduarda Cadore began to create his own jewelry after a long search without success in the traditional jeweler market. The design of the pieces did not like him or aroused desire. Curious, the product designer formed by UFRGS made the first course of jewelry in 2014. I was born there and ‘ Dore, brand of jewelry in small series and personalized orders, officially launched a year later in Porto Alegre.
At first, the anxiety to put the hand in the dough and use its own parts was so great that Eduarda created a set of rings already on the first day of school at the Escola gaucho of jewelry.
–I molded straight into the metal and already left class using–reminds the 25-year-old designer who followed with theoretical and practical training for three years.
Today, it seeks to fill a gap that perceives in the jewelry market: Mira in consumers who do not identify with the current brands, do not like the design found or simply find the parts very expensive.
–I seek to reach this public, showing that jewelry is a possible investment.
According to Eduarda, the authorial jewelry, as well as other niche markets, not only benefits as it is the result of the emergence of a new type of consumer, more informed, conscious and, mainly, eager for authenticity.
–This is great, because in addition to the authorial jewellery being a unique artistic expression, it also values the slow made and local production.
Her rings, chokers, rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings in gold and silver for prompt-delivery have minimalistic, timeless and delicate design, but personality. In orders, it also uses traditional stones such as diamond, Ruby and Sapphire, but has a predilection for the gaucho gems, especially those of their homeland, joyful, such as agate and quartz. The latter, inclusive, have called the attention of the customers in the atelier by the variety of colours and shapes:
–We seek to show the beauties of our land because many people don’t even imagine the treasures we have.
♦ Parts from R $169, for sale on the brand website and soon at the store Pandorga.
Phone: (51) 99875-0078
The Porto Alegre Marcos Rosemberg, 36 years, traveled different paths to become one of the highlights of contemporary jewelry in Brazil, with international recognition. Author of Nature-inspired pieces, creates collections with varied techniques, which break the visual language of traditional jewelry.
It was by the influence of the girlfriend that Marcos was interested in jewelry and made a technical course at Senai-RS. Self-taught, learned and developed techniques that later contributed to transform the hobby into profession. It came to form in foreign trade, with an MBA in international business, but realized during the early hours of testing on metals that was there its way.
-I found that we have to be passionate about what it does. But I only allowed myself to feel that at that moment and then do what I really wanted.
In 2007, Marcos moved to Denmark, country reference in design, where he was perfected at the Institute of Precious Metals. Your uncertification-uncertified admission required you to practice the field of techniques in a practical way.
–I had a master also self-taught that, before teaching technique, it made me wonder how to perform every procedure. So I was trying and, in this process, I learned to seek my own way of doing things–counts.
The materials that most uses are gold, silver and copper, but holds special affection for unusual elements such as a millennial tooth of shark found in Morocco that adorns one of its pendants, or a yellow agate of unfaceted River in one of its rings. Among the most representative parts of their work, are the ones that do with the technique Mokume Gane: lead up to 36 layers of gold, silver, copper and different alloys that, when finished, exhibit singular aspect in rings, brooches, bracelets, earrings and pendants.
♦ Parts from R $400, for sale at the Ling Institute, shop Pandorga and Fundação Camargo Iberê. It also sells in the physical points of Brasilia, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, the United States and Denmark.
Phone: (51) 99913-3817
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